Backyard Habitat

tips on coexisting with our wild neighbors

Biologists, conservationists, and wildlife rehabilitators agree: habitat loss is one of the greatest threats to biodiversity around the globe.

Help support native habitats right at home by turning your backyard into your very own wildlife sanctuary.  Click on the elements below to learn more about the different steps you can take to create a natural oasis.

If you prefer to read without interacting with the scene below, scroll on for a complete & accessible list!

This one's easy. Plant for pollinators! Your local gardening store is a great place to start when it comes to creating a pollinator paradise at home. Many stores sell wildflower seed mixes fit for your plant hardiness zone, or you can mix and match your favorite varieties. The more invertebrates you invite to your property, the more of, well, every other kind of critter you'll invite! 

Rockfish Wildlife Sanctuary has a pollinator garden in front of our facility. We are always amazed by the variety of insects and birds we get to see. We do not have a bird feeder, and yet, our garden teems with birds attracted to the insects and native seeds there. We love knowing that our work to rescue injured and orphaned wildlife is complimented by the refuge we're providing for "the locals" we share our land with. 

Consider installing a "bee hotel" as well - or make your own with your family! Also called bee houses or bee condos (too cute!), these simple structures help create safe shelter for solitary bees. Mason bees, leafcutter bees, and carpenter bees are all happy to use a bee hotel. Install your bee hotel near your pollinator garden and ensure the location will receive full morning sun. Bring the hotel's tubes inside each winter, and be sure to replace them every year once they've been used by a bee to prevent potential disease transmission. 




attract Pollinators

Prevent bird window collisions

Birds can't see glass the way humans do. In fact, window glass often reflects the vegetation outdoors, appearing like another lush spot for a bird to explore. Birds can also collide into windows at night, simply seeing the light without the glass in the way. 

Birds that crash into windows must be brought to a licensed wildlife rehabilitator. Even if the bird looks okay to you, they may have extensive internal trauma that is not immediate apparent. Always make sure a bird strike victim gets checked out!

Contrary to popular belief, traditional "hawk" decals do very little to deter bird collisions. To prevent bird collisions around your home, consider one of these proven options instead: 
  • Draw your own: use tempura paint or soap to draw lines down your windows, spaced about 2 inches apart from one another. This method is quick and easy, but may need more frequent re-application compared to more permanent methods. 
  • Lots of decals: for decals to be effective, they should be small and closely spaced together. Stickers, suncatchers, mylar tape, masking tape, or even sticky notes can work in a pinch. To be effective, they must be spaced close enough so a bird couldn't fly through it. 
  • Buy pre-made films: many retailers sell window films specifically designed for bird strike prevention. They are usually grids of dots or vertical lines, and typically are longer-lasting than DIY options like tempura paint. One well-trusted brand, used by the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, is Acopia Birdsavers. 
  • Netting: bug screens outside each window or netting installed taught enough create bounce can also be a great way to prevent birds from colliding. To prevent birds from getting tangled, look for small mesh netting.

Say no to poison

When it comes to pest control, nature always knows best. Creating habitats for raptors by installing nesting boxes or brush piles that attract their favorite prey help control rat and mouse populations.

Encouraging a diverse habitat in your backyard will help attract nature's pest control: foxes, bobcats, and raptors like hawks and owls. Hanging raptor nesting boxes and leaving brush piles can encourage these important predator species to spend more time nearby, making any "mouse problem" a problem of the past. 

As wildlife professionals, we do not recommend barn cats for pest control. Domestic cats are a non-native species, and thus, barn cat predation does not actually represent a form of "natural" pest control. 

Sadly, many people who see mice on their property opt for poisonous solutions. Rodenticides and other poisons are not discretionary substances. Any living being that is exposed to it can get sick from it, including humans! 

Using rodenticides can kill wildlife, both by poisoning other small native animals and accumulating up the food chain into predators like owls and foxes. In fact, one study in California found rat poison in 90% of mountain lions and 88% of bobcats - and in 25 animal species altogether, including the endangered San Joaquin kit fox and Northern Spotted Owl. In addition to the implications for wildlife, rodenticides can pose lethal threats to cats, dogs, and children. 

Opt for wildlife-safe options first! These can include: 
  • Smells: rodents dislike peppermint. Spray a mixture of 1 part peppermint essential oil, 1 part isopropyl alcohol, and 20 parts water liberally wherever you suspect rodent activity in or around your home. This method is incredibly effective and smells pretty great to us humans, thankfully! 
  • Lights: keep areas where you spot rodents brightly lit! Most rodent species prefer darkness, and light makes them feel vulnerable. Bulbs should be "daylight" colored. Ensure any lights you'd like to install outside are outdoor-safe. 
  • Sounds: nobody likes a radio blasting in their ears when they're trying to sleep! Play talk radio or music as loudly as you (and the neighbors) can tolerate, as close as possible to a suspected rodent hideout. This method helps deter other animals as well. We once had a caller play Justin Bieber loudly next to the skunk den outside his window, and the skunk moved along in 24 hours. Sorry, J-Biebs

Keep Cats indoors

Rockfish Wildlife Sanctuary has admitted nearly 200 patients since 2020 due to cat attacks. Any cat-caught animal must be seen by a licensed wildlife rehabilitator. Even if you don't see any obvious physical damage, cat teeth and claws can often cause teeny tears that trap dangerous bacteria beneath the wild animal's skin. This can lead to a systemic infection and death very quickly. 

Why do cats belong indoors? Outdoor and feral cats are an invasive species. Domestic cats were introduced to North America and have not evolved here in tandem with our native ecosystems. Like House Sparrows, European Starlings, Nutria, feral swine, and red-eared sliders, outdoor cats wreak environmental damage. A study published in Nature Communications found that "free-ranging domestic cats kill 1.3–4.0 billion birds and 6.3–22.3 billion mammals annually. Un-owned cats, as opposed to owned pets, cause the majority (~69%) of this mortality. Our findings suggest that free-ranging cats cause substantially greater wildlife mortality than previously thought and are likely the single greatest source of anthropogenic mortality for US birds and mammals.” While feral cats cause the majority of the damage, owned outdoor cats still kill between 2-7 billion wild animals every year.

Outdoor cats are also the definitive host for Toxoplasma gondii, a protozoan parasite that can make any warm-blooded mammal sick - including humans. When free-roaming cats defecate in the environment, they shed oocytes (eggs) that are environmentally robust. That means the oocytes are tough, and few disinfection methods deactivate them other than heat (boiling water or blow torch). Exposure to T. gondii can cause toxoplasmosis disease, which can be dangerous for immunocompromised individuals and pregnant individuals. Toxoplasmosis  can infect the unborn fetus via the placenta, causing miscarriage, fetal death, or severe congenital defects. 

Now don't get us wrong - we love cats! It's because we love our furry feline friends that we believe they should be kept indoors. Indoor cats live longer, healthier lives than outdoor cats. Free-roaming outdoor cats are more likely to be exposed to parasites like roundworms, fleas, and ticks and diseases like feline leukemia. They are more likely to come into contact with poisonous substances, whether by stumbling upon poison themselves or by hunting rodents that have ingested rodenticides. 

If you'd like to give your cat outdoor access, consider constructing an enclosed "catio" or walking your cat on a leash, picking up its feces like you would with a dog.  Catios don't need to be fancy, though there are plenty of awesome, complex catios out there for design inspiration! You can also purchase a catio enclosure, often for under $200. We think that's a price worth paying, for your beloved kitty's safety and for the safety of native critters. 


Install a Bat House

Sick of mosquitoes ruining your summer fun? Your local bat population would love to help out! Installing a high-quality bat house can attract these bug-busting critters to spend more time around your house. One bat can eat its body weight in insects every single night! They can help control a variety of species, including mosquitoes and invasive insects like the spotted lanternfly. 

We have installed a BatBnB bat house at Rockfish Wildlife Sanctuary, and we had a small colony move in that very same summer! Don't be discouraged if you hang a bat box and don't see any activity the first year, or even the first couple of years. Bats are quite picky and may occasionally take a few years to move in. You might need to experiment a bit with positioning. 

Rockfish Wildlife Sanctuary has a partnership with BatBnb! Use code "ROCKFISH" at checkout and get 15% off your order - and RWS will receive 10% of the sale, too! We love working with BatBnB and cannot recommend their gorgeous bat houses enough. 


Leave dead trees

Even dead trees are vital for lively, dynamic ecosystems. They foster vibrant microbiomes, recruit fungi growth that helps break down the tree's remaining nutrients, and provide essential shelter for a variety of species. Woodpeckers, for example, love foraging and nesting in dead trees. Bats will use crevices in dead trees as roosts, as will raccoons and squirrels. 

As long as a dead tree does not pose a threat to your home or humans, we recommend leaving them be. You can also selectively remove problematic limbs while keeping the trunk in-tact, attracting a variety of species to your property. 

Native trees & Nesting boxes

A wonderful way to attract birds to your property is to plant native trees and install nest boxes. Work to remove invasive plants like tree of heaven (ailanthus), callery pear, autumn olive, and kudzu while installing bird houses and raptor nesting boxes on native trees. There are many nest boxes commercially available, or you can build your own and decorate it! If you're not quite sure where to begin when it comes to backyard vegetation, check in with your local native plant landscaping company for advice. 

Nest boxes not only provide habitat for native birds, but they also help keep your backyard ecosystem in balance. Cavity-nesting species like Eastern Bluebirds and Carolina Wrens love birdhouses and can help control insect populations, especially if you're a gardener dealing with garden pests. Owl nest boxes are often used by Eastern Screech-owls and Barred Owls, who both help control prey like rodents. Attracting native raptors to your yard is an incredibly effective method of pest control! 



Responsible birdfeeder use

Though we typically recommend against feeding wildlife, including birds, we know that many folks dearly love their bird feeders. (Planting native plants is often enough to attract a wide array of bird activity, anyway!) Bird feeders can contribute to disease transmission across populations, like mycoplasma and avian pox. If you would like to feed birds in your yard, follow these best practices for the health  of birds and humans alike. 

  • Use multiple feeding stations in different areas of your property to disperse bird activity and reduce disease transmission. Offer different seeds in different feeders, too, in order to decrease interactions between species that have different diets. 
  • Purchase or create specialized blends rather than seed mixtures targeted to a wide variety of species, as the latter often contains fillers like milo that many birds pick through. Mess below a feeder can attract squirrels, raccoons, or bears to gather which can further disease transmission or cause human-wildlife conflicts. 
  • If possible, elevate your feeder on a well-draining platform to prevent any fallen food from sitting in damp conditions. This can cause ground-feeding birds to become sick. 
  • Clean every feeder thoroughly with a 10% bleach solution once per week, using nitrile gloves and a face mask as personal protection. 
  • Avoid handling wild birds. If you suspect a wild bird is injured or orphaned, call Rockfish Wildlife Sanctuary at (434) 263-4954. 
  • If you have found a dead bird at your feeder, bury it at least 3 feet or dispose of it in a tied plastic bag with your household trash. 
  • Report any other bird mortalities to the Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources using their mortality event report form. Bird mortality events are often the first sign of a new emerging disease, and it's important for the authorities to know. 



Water and bird baths

Leaving water out for wildlife in the form of bowls or a designated bird bath can be beneficial, but is not necessary in most cases. It can be helpful to provide if you do not have any natural water resources on your property or nearby, like a pond or stream. It can also be helpful to local wildlife during heat waves. No need to buy a fancy stone bird bath or build a pond (power to you if you do, though!). At the Sanctuary, we use planter saucers to provide fresh water to our patients in outdoor pre-release enclosures. They are low to the ground, allowing for easy access for a variety of species. Birds will also gladly bathe in these wide pans! 

If you provide fresh water for wildlife, it's vital you do so responsibly through frequent, thorough cleaning. Bowls should be completely cleaned out every 3 days at the bare minimum, though daily is ideal. We recommend having two bowls you use for water, so you can just swap them out every other day. Using nitrile gloves, scrub the water dish with warm, soapy water. Spray with a 10% bleach solution, allow it to sit for 10 minutes, and rinse the bleach solution off. Once dry, the bowl is ready to go back out and help hydrate critters.

Do not allow pets or children to drink the water from the water dish or bird bath. If possible, elevate any water pans or bird baths on a well-draining platform. This prevents unnecessary dampness around the bowls, which can lead to mold and contribute to disease transmission. 


Leave leaf litter

As fun as it is to jump in a pile of leaves, we recommend leaving fallen leaves where they are. No need to rake! Leaf litter provides essential habitat to some of our smallest wild neighbors, like native herptiles, insects, and mice. This is especially true in the fall and winter, when many animals rely on the shelter of leaf litter to get through cold days. 

Insects in particular need leaf litter to survive the winter, and no wildlife sanctuary would be successful without a wide variety of insects! Bees burrow to hibernate while  moths and butterflies stay tucked into the leaves in various life cycle stages, awaiting the warmth of springtime to cue their development into flying beauties. Snails, worms, spiders, and beetles also rely on leaf litter to survive the season. Most other animals rely on these invertebrates to survive, too! Birds, turtles, amphibians, chipmunks, and mice will chow down on these critters throughout the year but especially when vegetation to eat is scarce. 

Do you live in a neighborhood with an HOA that requires leaves be raked? If there is any spot in your yard (perhaps the backyard, away from the curb!) where you can leave a patch of leaves, please do so. Even a little bit of leave coverage is better than none. Additionally, consider speaking with your HOA reps about the importance of leaf coverage for wildlife. Most folks just don't know how important fallen leaves are to our ecosystems. If all leaves absolutely must be raked and removed, you can still help provide habitat for invertebrates and small critters. Plant native vegetation and focus on flowers and shrubs that attract pollinators. 
Leaving brush piles around your property provides shelter for an immense variety of species. Brush piles don't need to be huge - even just a few sticks and leaves clumped together after trimming your property's vegetation is enough to provide a safe haven for a wild neighbor. Opossums, snakes, skunks, raccoons, chipmunks, lizards, and countless other species will happily rest in a brush pile. At RWS, we create brush piles all the time when cutting enrichment clippings for outdoor enclosures or clearing brush from around enclosures in the winter. We often see more critter activity around that area within just a few days. 

If you are frustrated by an animal spending time on your property, this tip works in reverse. Make sure your yard is free of brush piles where critters might be seeking refuge. Without shelter, they'll opt for another location. 





gardening considerations

Wild animals will always exert the least amount of energy for the most amount of calories available. If you have an easily accessible garden or chicken coop, it just looks like a buffet to native animals! We often receive calls from folks who are frustrated by these uninvited garden guests, but the animals don't know they didn't receive an invitation. 

Think exclusion, not extermination - and start with the least invasive methods possible. First, consider planting garden borders using species that deter herbivorous critters. Consult your local native plant society or landscaping organization for region-specific advice. Generally, though, boxwood, lavender, butterfly butterfly bush, and marigolds are less desirable for deer or groundhogs to munch on.

A study fence will typically do the trick when deterrent plants don't seem to cut it. To keep deer out of a garden, a fence should be 8 feet high. To keep groundhogs, foxes, mice, and skunks out, we recommend burying the fencing. Put L-shaped hardwire at least 1 foot deep, ideally 2 feet or so, with the tail of the L pointing away from the fence. Fill it back in, and voila - critterproofed! Digging animals will be obstructed if they attempt to dig straight down or dig diagonally. You can also consider putting a 2-3 foot wide "sidewalk" of hardwire flat around the whole garden perimeter. (For the visual learners out there, check out this helpful post from Our Edible Garden.)  Should an animal attempt to dig in along the fence line, they will not get very far! If you do end up needing a heavy duty solution, a low-voltage electric line around the fence is usually an effective tool that still minimizes harm to wildlife. 

It is illegal to trap and relocate wildlife in Virginia. Do not trap an animal on your property and release it elsewhere - not even "just this once." 

Lastly, we also encourage gardeners to use organic fertilizers and treatments. Though we humans can wash our food thoroughly before enjoying it, wild animals don't have that luxury. If you wouldn't eat it, they shouldn't be eating it either. Chemicals and pesticides quickly move up the food chain and impact far more than just the first animal that comes into contact with them. 


Fencing

Habitat fragmentation and loss due to human development is a massive issue for wildlife in Virginia and beyond. Approximately 93,000 acres of Virginian open space land is converted to non-renewable uses each year! With every acre developed, wild animals lose safe territory and  passage along important ecological corridors. You can combat this fragmentation by ensuring your property allows wild animals to pass through. 

If you need to fence your yard for whatever reason, consider the critters. Wild animals do need to be able to enter and exit safely for your property to be a true wildlife sanctuary. If possible, forego a traditional fence in favor of a natural fence, made of native bushes and vegetation. Consider options like Virginia sweetspire, mountain laurel, spicebush, inkberry, or chokeberry bushes for a natural hedge-like screen. If you'd like to deter people and deer, consider taller, thorny species like American holly, Devil's walking stick, and raspberry bushes. These still allow small wildlife to pass through, like turtles and opossums, while preventing deer from nibbling and humans from prowling. 

If you have young explorers at home (kids!) or curious pets that necessitate installing a more traditional fence, you can still make your fence wildlife-friendly! A wildlife-friendly fence should be highly visible to birds and larger animals, like deer, and allow wildlife to jump over, climb over, or crawl under the fence to access resources or important ecological corridors. A simple wooden or wire fence with 16 inches of clearance below and 12 inches of clearance between the top two wires can allow most species easy access. Use wood, smooth wire, or rounded rails on the top and bottom to prevent injury, and avoid using sharp materials like barbed wire. Flag fence posts with high-visibility tape or other obvious marker to prevent wildlife collisions. Creating colorful flags or other bright markers for your wildlife-friendly fence is a wonderful activity to do with your child! 

We know that deer can occasionally cause concern for gardeners. If you'd like to allow deer to pass through, we recommend keeping your fence 42" or less. If you'd like to prevent deer from accessing your yard but would like other wildlife to be able to enter, fences must typically be at least 8' tall to reliably exclude deer. 

If you'd like to explore land use and conservation patterns in Virginia, we recommend checking out the Natural Heritage Data Explorer, an interactive map created by the Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation. 



This one's easy. Plant for pollinators! Your local gardening store is a great place to start when it comes to creating a pollinator paradise at home. Many stores sell wildflower seed mixes fit for your plant hardiness zone, or you can mix and match your favorite varieties. The more invertebrates you invite to your property, the more of, well, every other kind of critter you'll invite! 

Rockfish Wildlife Sanctuary has a pollinator garden in front of our facility. We are always amazed by the variety of insects and birds we get to see. We do not have a bird feeder, and yet, our garden teems with birds attracted to the insects and native seeds there. We love knowing that our work to rescue injured and orphaned wildlife is complimented by the refuge we're providing for "the locals" we share our land with. 

Consider installing a "bee hotel" as well - or make your own with your family! Also called bee houses or bee condos (too cute!), these simple structures help create safe shelter for solitary bees. Mason bees, leafcutter bees, and carpenter bees are all happy to use a bee hotel. Install your bee hotel near your pollinator garden and ensure the location will receive full morning sun. Bring the hotel's tubes inside each winter, and be sure to replace them every year once they've been used by a bee to prevent potential disease transmission. 




attract Pollinators

Prevent bird window collisions

Birds can't see glass the way humans do. In fact, window glass often reflects the vegetation outdoors, appearing like another lush spot for a bird to explore. Birds can also collide into windows at night, simply seeing the light without the glass in the way. 

Birds that crash into windows must be brought to a licensed wildlife rehabilitator. Even if the bird looks okay to you, they may have extensive internal trauma that is not immediate apparent. Always make sure a bird strike victim gets checked out!

Contrary to popular belief, traditional "hawk" decals do very little to deter bird collisions. To prevent bird collisions around your home, consider one of these proven options instead: 
  • Draw your own: use tempura paint or soap to draw lines down your windows, spaced about 2 inches apart from one another. This method is quick and easy, but may need more frequent re-application compared to more permanent methods. 
  • Lots of decals: for decals to be effective, they should be small and closely spaced together. Stickers, suncatchers, mylar tape, masking tape, or even sticky notes can work in a pinch. To be effective, they must be spaced close enough so a bird couldn't fly through it. 
  • Buy pre-made films: many retailers sell window films specifically designed for bird strike prevention. They are usually grids of dots or vertical lines, and typically are longer-lasting than DIY options like tempura paint. One well-trusted brand, used by the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, is Acopia Birdsavers. 
  • Netting: bug screens outside each window or netting installed taught enough create bounce can also be a great way to prevent birds from colliding. To prevent birds from getting tangled, look for small mesh netting.

Say no to poison

When it comes to pest control, nature
always knows best.
Creating habitats for
raptors by installing nesting boxes or brush
piles that attract their favorite prey help control rat and mouse populations.

Encouraging a diverse habitat in your backyard will help attract nature's pest control: foxes, bobcats, and raptors like hawks and owls. Hanging raptor nesting boxes and leaving brush piles can encourage these important predator species to spend more time nearby, making any "mouse problem" a problem of the past. 

As wildlife professionals, we do not recommend barn cats for pest control. Domestic cats are a non-native species, and thus, barn cat predation does not actually represent a form of "natural" pest control. 

Sadly, many people who see mice on their property opt for poisonous solutions. Rodenticides and other poisons are not discretionary substances. Any living being that is exposed to it can get sick from it, including humans! 

Using rodenticides can kill wildlife, both by poisoning other small native animals and accumulating up the food chain into predators like owls and foxes. In fact, one study in California found rat poison in 90% of mountain lions and 88% of bobcats - and in 25 animal species altogether, including the endangered San Joaquin kit fox and Northern Spotted Owl. In addition to the implications for wildlife, rodenticides can pose lethal threats to cats, dogs, and children. 

Opt for wildlife-safe options first!
These can include: 
  • Smells: rodents dislike peppermint. Spray a mixture of 1 part peppermint essential oil, 1 part isopropyl alcohol, and 20 parts water liberally wherever you suspect rodent activity in or around your home. This method is incredibly effective and smells pretty great to us humans, thankfully! 
  • Lights: keep areas where you spot rodents brightly lit! Most rodent species prefer darkness, and light makes them feel vulnerable. Bulbs should be "daylight" colored. Ensure any lights you'd like to install outside are outdoor-safe. 
  • Sounds: nobody likes a radio blasting in their ears when they're trying to sleep! Play talk radio or music as loudly as you (and the neighbors) can tolerate, as close as possible to a suspected rodent hideout. This method helps deter other animals as well. We once had a caller play Justin Bieber loudly next to the skunk den outside his window, and the skunk moved along in 24 hours. Sorry, J-Biebs

Keep Cats indoors

Rockfish Wildlife Sanctuary has admitted nearly 200 patients since 2020 due to cat attacks. Any cat-caught animal must be seen by a licensed wildlife rehabilitator. Even if you don't see any obvious physical damage, cat teeth and claws can often cause teeny tears that trap dangerous bacteria beneath the wild animal's skin. This can lead to a systemic infection and death very quickly. 

Why do cats belong indoors? Outdoor and feral cats are an invasive species. Domestic cats were introduced to North America and have not evolved here in tandem with our native ecosystems. Like House Sparrows, European Starlings, Nutria, feral swine, and red-eared sliders, outdoor cats wreak environmental damage. A study published in Nature Communications found that "free-ranging domestic cats kill 1.3–4.0 billion birds and 6.3–22.3 billion mammals annually. Un-owned cats, as opposed to owned pets, cause the majority (~69%) of this mortality. Our findings suggest that free-ranging cats cause substantially greater wildlife mortality than previously thought and are likely the single greatest source of anthropogenic mortality for US birds and mammals.” While feral cats cause the majority of the damage, owned outdoor cats still kill between 2-7 billion wild animals every year.

Outdoor cats are also the definitive host for Toxoplasma gondii, a protozoan parasite that can make any warm-blooded mammal sick - including humans. When free-roaming cats defecate in the environment, they shed oocytes (eggs) that are environmentally robust. That means the oocytes are tough, and few disinfection methods deactivate them other than heat (boiling water or blow torch). Exposure to T. gondii can cause toxoplasmosis disease, which can be dangerous for immunocompromised individuals and pregnant individuals. Toxoplasmosis  can infect the unborn fetus via the placenta, causing miscarriage, fetal death, or severe congenital defects. 

Now don't get us wrong - we love cats! It's because we love our furry feline friends that we believe they should be kept indoors. Indoor cats live longer, healthier lives than outdoor cats. Free-roaming outdoor cats are more likely to be exposed to parasites like roundworms, fleas, and ticks and diseases like feline leukemia. They are more likely to come into contact with poisonous substances, whether by stumbling upon poison themselves or by hunting rodents that have ingested rodenticides. 

If you'd like to give your cat outdoor access, consider constructing an enclosed "catio" or walking your cat on a leash, picking up its feces like you would with a dog.  Catios don't need to be fancy, though there are plenty of awesome, complex catios out there for design inspiration! You can also purchase a catio enclosure, often for under $200. We think that's a price worth paying, for your beloved kitty's safety and for the safety of native critters. 


Install a Bat House

Sick of mosquitoes ruining your summer fun? Your local bat population would love to help out! Installing a high-quality bat house can attract these bug-busting critters to spend more time around your house. One bat can eat its body weight in insects every single night! They can help control a variety of species, including mosquitoes and invasive insects like the spotted lanternfly. 

We have installed a BatBnB bat house at Rockfish Wildlife Sanctuary, and we had a small colony move in that very same summer! Don't be discouraged if you hang a bat box and don't see any activity the first year, or even the first couple of years. Bats are quite picky and may occasionally take a few years to move in. You might need to experiment a bit with positioning. 

Rockfish Wildlife Sanctuary has a partnership with BatBnb! Use code "ROCKFISH" at checkout and get 15% off your order - and RWS will receive 10% of the sale, too! We love working with BatBnB and cannot recommend their gorgeous bat houses enough. 


Leave dead trees

Even dead trees are vital for lively, dynamic ecosystems. They foster vibrant microbiomes, recruit fungi growth that helps break down the tree's remaining nutrients, and provide essential shelter for a variety of species. Woodpeckers, for example, love foraging and nesting in dead trees. Bats will use crevices in dead trees as roosts, as will raccoons and squirrels. 

As long as a dead tree does not pose a threat to your home or humans, we recommend leaving them be. You can also selectively remove problematic limbs while keeping the trunk in-tact, attracting a variety of species to your property. 

Native trees & Nesting boxes

A wonderful way to attract birds to your property is to plant native trees and install nest boxes. Work to remove invasive plants like tree of heaven (ailanthus), callery pear, autumn olive, and kudzu while installing bird houses and raptor nesting boxes on native trees. There are many nest boxes commercially available, or you can build your own and decorate it! If you're not quite sure where to begin when it comes to backyard vegetation, check in with your local native plant landscaping company for advice. 

Nest boxes not only provide habitat for native birds, but they also help keep your backyard ecosystem in balance. Cavity-nesting species like Eastern Bluebirds and Carolina Wrens love birdhouses and can help control insect populations, especially if you're a gardener dealing with garden pests. Owl nest boxes are often used by Eastern Screech-owls and Barred Owls, who both help control prey like rodents. Attracting native raptors to your yard is an incredibly effective method of pest control! 



Responsible birdfeeder use

Though we typically recommend against feeding wildlife, including birds, we know that many folks dearly love their bird feeders. (Planting native plants is often enough to attract a wide array of bird activity, anyway!) Bird feeders can contribute to disease transmission across populations, like mycoplasma and avian pox. If you would like to feed birds in your yard, follow these best practices for the health  of birds and humans alike. 

  • Use multiple feeding stations in different areas of your property to disperse bird activity and reduce disease transmission. Offer different seeds in different feeders, too, in order to decrease interactions between species that have different diets. 
  • Purchase or create specialized blends rather than seed mixtures targeted to a wide variety of species, as the latter often contains fillers like milo that many birds pick through. Mess below a feeder can attract squirrels, raccoons, or bears to gather which can further disease transmission or cause human-wildlife conflicts. 
  • If possible, elevate your feeder on a well-draining platform to prevent any fallen food from sitting in damp conditions. This can cause ground-feeding birds to become sick. 
  • Clean every feeder thoroughly with a 10% bleach solution once per week, using nitrile gloves and a face mask as personal protection. 
  • Avoid handling wild birds. If you suspect a wild bird is injured or orphaned, call Rockfish Wildlife Sanctuary at (434) 263-4954. 
  • If you have found a dead bird at your feeder, bury it at least 3 feet or dispose of it in a tied plastic bag with your household trash. 
  • Report any other bird mortalities to the Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources using their mortality event report form. Bird mortality events are often the first sign of a new emerging disease, and it's important for the authorities to know. 


Water and bird baths

Leaving water out for wildlife in the form of bowls or a designated bird bath can be beneficial, but is not necessary in most cases. It can be helpful to provide if you do not have any natural water resources on your property or nearby, like a pond or stream. It can also be helpful to local wildlife during heat waves. No need to buy a fancy stone bird bath or build a pond (power to you if you do, though!). At the Sanctuary, we use planter saucers to provide fresh water to our patients in outdoor pre-release enclosures. They are low to the ground, allowing for easy access for a variety of species. Birds will also gladly bathe in these wide pans! 

If you provide fresh water for wildlife, it's vital you do so responsibly through frequent, thorough cleaning. Bowls should be completely cleaned out every 3 days at the bare minimum, though daily is ideal. We recommend having two bowls you use for water, so you can just swap them out every other day. Using nitrile gloves, scrub the water dish with warm, soapy water. Spray with a 10% bleach solution, allow it to sit for 10 minutes, and rinse the bleach solution off. Once dry, the bowl is ready to go back out and help hydrate critters.

Do not allow pets or children to drink the water from the water dish or bird bath. If possible, elevate any water pans or bird baths on a well-draining platform. This prevents unnecessary dampness around the bowls, which can lead to mold and contribute to disease transmission. 


Leave leaf litter

As fun as it is to jump in a pile of leaves, we recommend leaving fallen leaves where they are. No need to rake! Leaf litter provides essential habitat to some of our smallest wild neighbors, like native herptiles, insects, and mice. This is especially true in the fall and winter, when many animals rely on the shelter of leaf litter to get through cold days. 

Insects in particular need leaf litter to survive the winter, and no wildlife sanctuary would be successful without a wide variety of insects! Bees burrow to hibernate while  moths and butterflies stay tucked into the leaves in various life cycle stages, awaiting the warmth of springtime to cue their development into flying beauties. Snails, worms, spiders, and beetles also rely on leaf litter to survive the season. Most other animals rely on these invertebrates to survive, too! Birds, turtles, amphibians, chipmunks, and mice will chow down on these critters throughout the year but especially when vegetation to eat is scarce. 

Do you live in a neighborhood with an HOA that requires leaves be raked? If there is any spot in your yard (perhaps the backyard, away from the curb!) where you can leave a patch of leaves, please do so. Even a little bit of leave coverage is better than none. Additionally, consider speaking with your HOA reps about the importance of leaf coverage for wildlife. Most folks just don't know how important fallen leaves are to our ecosystems. If all leaves absolutely must be raked and removed, you can still help provide habitat for invertebrates and small critters. Plant native vegetation and focus on flowers and shrubs that attract pollinators. 
Leaving brush piles around your property provides shelter for an immense variety of species. Brush piles don't need to be huge - even just a few sticks and leaves clumped together after trimming your property's vegetation is enough to provide a safe haven for a wild neighbor. Opossums, snakes, skunks, raccoons, chipmunks, lizards, and countless other species will happily rest in a brush pile. At RWS, we create brush piles all the time when cutting enrichment clippings for outdoor enclosures or clearing brush from around enclosures in the winter. We often see more critter activity around that area within just a few days. 

If you are frustrated by an animal spending time on your property, this tip works in reverse. Make sure your yard is free of brush piles where critters might be seeking refuge. Without shelter, they'll opt for another location. 





gardening considerations

Wild animals will always exert the least amount of energy for the most amount of calories available. If you have an easily accessible garden or chicken coop, it just looks like a buffet to native animals! We often receive calls from folks who are frustrated by these uninvited garden guests, but the animals don't know they didn't receive an invitation. 

Think exclusion, not extermination - and start with the least invasive methods possible. First, consider planting garden borders using species that deter herbivorous critters. Consult your local native plant society or landscaping organization for region-specific advice. Generally, though, boxwood, lavender, butterfly butterfly bush, and marigolds are less desirable for deer or groundhogs to munch on.

A study fence will typically do the trick when deterrent plants don't seem to cut it. To keep deer out of a garden, a fence should be 8 feet high. To keep groundhogs, foxes, mice, and skunks out, we recommend burying the fencing. Put L-shaped hardwire at least 1 foot deep, ideally 2 feet or so, with the tail of the L pointing away from the fence. Fill it back in, and voila - critterproofed! Digging animals will be obstructed if they attempt to dig straight down or dig diagonally. You can also consider putting a 2-3 foot wide "sidewalk" of hardwire flat around the whole garden perimeter. (For the visual learners out there, check out this helpful post from Our Edible Garden.)  Should an animal attempt to dig in along the fence line, they will not get very far! If you do end up needing a heavy duty solution, a low-voltage electric line around the fence is usually an effective tool that still minimizes harm to wildlife. 

It is illegal to trap and relocate wildlife in Virginia. Do not trap an animal on your property and release it elsewhere - not even "just this once." 

Lastly, we also encourage gardeners to use organic fertilizers and treatments. Though we humans can wash our food thoroughly before enjoying it, wild animals don't have that luxury. If you wouldn't eat it, they shouldn't be eating it either. Chemicals and pesticides quickly move up the food chain and impact far more than just the first animal that comes into contact with them. 


Fencing

Habitat fragmentation and loss due to human development is a massive issue for wildlife in Virginia and beyond. Approximately 93,000 acres of Virginian open space land is converted to non-renewable uses each year! With every acre developed, wild animals lose safe territory and  passage along important ecological corridors. You can combat this fragmentation by ensuring your property allows wild animals to pass through. 

If you need to fence your yard for whatever reason, consider the critters. Wild animals do need to be able to enter and exit safely for your property to be a true wildlife sanctuary. If possible, forego a traditional fence in favor of a natural fence, made of native bushes and vegetation. Consider options like Virginia sweetspire, mountain laurel, spicebush, inkberry, or chokeberry bushes for a natural hedge-like screen. If you'd like to deter people and deer, consider taller, thorny species like American holly, Devil's walking stick, and raspberry bushes. These still allow small wildlife to pass through, like turtles and opossums, while preventing deer from nibbling and humans from prowling. 

If you have young explorers at home (kids!) or curious pets that necessitate installing a more traditional fence, you can still make your fence wildlife-friendly! A wildlife-friendly fence should be highly visible to birds and larger animals, like deer, and allow wildlife to jump over, climb over, or crawl under the fence to access resources or important ecological corridors. A simple wooden or wire fence with 16 inches of clearance below and 12 inches of clearance between the top two wires can allow most species easy access. Use wood, smooth wire, or rounded rails on the top and bottom to prevent injury, and avoid using sharp materials like barbed wire. Flag fence posts with high-visibility tape or other obvious marker to prevent wildlife collisions. Creating colorful flags or other bright markers for your wildlife-friendly fence is a wonderful activity to do with your child! 

We know that deer can occasionally cause concern for gardeners. If you'd like to allow deer to pass through, we recommend keeping your fence 42" or less. If you'd like to prevent deer from accessing your yard but would like other wildlife to be able to enter, fences must typically be at least 8' tall to reliably exclude deer. 

If you'd like to explore land use and conservation patterns in Virginia, we recommend checking out the Natural Heritage Data Explorer, an interactive map created by the Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation. 



attract Pollinators

This one's easy. Plant for pollinators! Your local gardening store is a great place to start when it comes to creating a pollinator paradise at home. Many stores sell wildflower seed mixes fit for your plant hardiness zone, or you can mix and match your favorite varieties. The more invertebrates you invite to your property, the more of, well, every other kind of critter you'll invite! 

Rockfish Wildlife Sanctuary has a pollinator garden in front of our facility. We are always amazed by the variety of insects and birds we get to see. We do not have a bird feeder, and yet, our garden teems with birds attracted to the insects and native seeds there. We love knowing that our work to rescue injured and orphaned wildlife is complimented by the refuge we're providing for "the locals" we share our land with. 

Consider installing a "bee hotel" as well - or make your own with your family! Also called bee houses or bee condos (too cute!), these simple structures help create safe shelter for solitary bees. Mason bees, leafcutter bees, and carpenter bees are all happy to use a bee hotel. Install your bee hotel near your pollinator garden and ensure the location will receive full morning sun. Bring the hotel's tubes inside each winter, and be sure to replace them every year once they've been used by a bee to prevent potential disease transmission. 




Prevent bird window collisions

Birds can't see glass the way humans do. In fact, window glass often reflects the vegetation outdoors, appearing like another lush spot for a bird to explore. Birds can also collide into windows at night, simply seeing the light without the glass in the way. 

Birds that crash into windows must be brought to a licensed wildlife rehabilitator. Even if the bird looks okay to you, they may have extensive internal trauma that is not immediate apparent. Always make sure a bird strike victim gets checked out!

Contrary to popular belief, traditional "hawk" decals do very little to deter bird collisions. To prevent bird collisions around your home, consider one of these proven options instead: 
  • Draw your own: use tempura paint or soap to draw lines down your windows, spaced about 2 inches apart from one another. This method is quick and easy, but may need more frequent re-application compared to more permanent methods. 
  • Lots of decals: for decals to be effective, they should be small and closely spaced together. Stickers, suncatchers, mylar tape, masking tape, or even sticky notes can work in a pinch. To be effective, they must be spaced close enough so a bird couldn't fly through it. 
  • Buy pre-made films: many retailers sell window films specifically designed for bird strike prevention. They are usually grids of dots or vertical lines, and typically are longer-lasting than DIY options like tempura paint. One well-trusted brand, used by the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, is Acopia Birdsavers. 
  • Netting: bug screens outside each window or netting installed taught enough create bounce can also be a great way to prevent birds from colliding. To prevent birds from getting tangled, look for small mesh netting.

Say no to poison

When it comes to pest control, nature always knows best. Creating habitats for raptors by installing nesting boxes or brush piles that attract their favorite prey help control rat and mouse populations.

Encouraging a diverse habitat in your backyard will help attract nature's pest control: foxes, bobcats, and raptors like hawks and owls. Hanging raptor nesting boxes and leaving brush piles can encourage these important predator species to spend more time nearby, making any "mouse problem" a problem of the past. 

As wildlife professionals, we do not recommend barn cats for pest control. Domestic cats are a non-native species, and thus, barn cat predation does not actually represent a form of "natural" pest control. 

Sadly, many people who see mice on their property opt for poisonous solutions. Rodenticides and other poisons are not discretionary substances. Any living being that is exposed to it can get sick from it, including humans! 

Using rodenticides can kill wildlife, both by poisoning other small native animals and accumulating up the food chain into predators like owls and foxes. In fact, one study in California found rat poison in 90% of mountain lions and 88% of bobcats - and in 25 animal species altogether, including the endangered San Joaquin kit fox and Northern Spotted Owl. In addition to the implications for wildlife, rodenticides can pose lethal threats to cats, dogs, and children. 

Opt for wildlife-safe options first! These can include: 
  • Smells: rodents dislike peppermint. Spray a mixture of 1 part peppermint essential oil, 1 part isopropyl alcohol, and 20 parts water liberally wherever you suspect rodent activity in or around your home. This method is incredibly effective and smells pretty great to us humans, thankfully! 
  • Lights: keep areas where you spot rodents brightly lit! Most rodent species prefer darkness, and light makes them feel vulnerable. Bulbs should be "daylight" colored. Ensure any lights you'd like to install outside are outdoor-safe. 
  • Sounds: nobody likes a radio blasting in their ears when they're trying to sleep! Play talk radio or music as loudly as you (and the neighbors) can tolerate, as close as possible to a suspected rodent hideout. This method helps deter other animals as well. We once had a caller play Justin Bieber loudly next to the skunk den outside his window, and the skunk moved along in 24 hours. Sorry, J-Biebs

Keep Cats indoors

Rockfish Wildlife Sanctuary has admitted nearly 200 patients since 2020 due to cat attacks. Any cat-caught animal must be seen by a licensed wildlife rehabilitator. Even if you don't see any obvious physical damage, cat teeth and claws can often cause teeny tears that trap dangerous bacteria beneath the wild animal's skin. This can lead to a systemic infection and death very quickly. 

Why do cats belong indoors? Outdoor and feral cats are an invasive species. Domestic cats were introduced to North America and have not evolved here in tandem with our native ecosystems. Like House Sparrows, European Starlings, Nutria, feral swine, and red-eared sliders, outdoor cats wreak environmental damage. A study published in Nature Communications found that "free-ranging domestic cats kill 1.3–4.0 billion birds and 6.3–22.3 billion mammals annually. Un-owned cats, as opposed to owned pets, cause the majority (~69%) of this mortality. Our findings suggest that free-ranging cats cause substantially greater wildlife mortality than previously thought and are likely the single greatest source of anthropogenic mortality for US birds and mammals.” While feral cats cause the majority of the damage, owned outdoor cats still kill between 2-7 billion wild animals every year.

Outdoor cats are also the definitive host for Toxoplasma gondii, a protozoan parasite that can make any warm-blooded mammal sick - including humans. When free-roaming cats defecate in the environment, they shed oocytes (eggs) that are environmentally robust. That means the oocytes are tough, and few disinfection methods deactivate them other than heat (boiling water or blow torch). Exposure to T. gondii can cause toxoplasmosis disease, which can be dangerous for immunocompromised individuals and pregnant individuals. Toxoplasmosis  can infect the unborn fetus via the placenta, causing miscarriage, fetal death, or severe congenital defects. 

Now don't get us wrong - we love cats! It's because we love our furry feline friends that we believe they should be kept indoors. Indoor cats live longer, healthier lives than outdoor cats. Free-roaming outdoor cats are more likely to be exposed to parasites like roundworms, fleas, and ticks and diseases like feline leukemia. They are more likely to come into contact with poisonous substances, whether by stumbling upon poison themselves or by hunting rodents that have ingested rodenticides. 

If you'd like to give your cat outdoor access, consider constructing an enclosed "catio" or walking your cat on a leash, picking up its feces like you would with a dog.  Catios don't need to be fancy, though there are plenty of awesome, complex catios out there for design inspiration! You can also purchase a catio enclosure, often for under $200. We think that's a price worth paying, for your beloved kitty's safety and for the safety of native critters. 


Install a Bat House

Sick of mosquitoes ruining your summer fun? Your local bat population would love to help out! Installing a high-quality bat house can attract these bug-busting critters to spend more time around your house. One bat can eat its body weight in insects every single night! They can help control a variety of species, including mosquitoes and invasive insects like the spotted lanternfly. 

We have installed a BatBnB bat house at Rockfish Wildlife Sanctuary, and we had a small colony move in that very same summer! Don't be discouraged if you hang a bat box and don't see any activity the first year, or even the first couple of years. Bats are quite picky and may occasionally take a few years to move in. You might need to experiment a bit with positioning. 

Rockfish Wildlife Sanctuary has a partnership with BatBnb! Use code "ROCKFISH" at checkout and get 15% off your order - and RWS will receive 10% of the sale, too! We love working with BatBnB and cannot recommend their gorgeous bat houses enough. 


SHOP BATBNB FOR RWS

Leave dead trees

Even dead trees are vital for lively, dynamic ecosystems. They foster vibrant microbiomes, recruit fungi growth that helps break down the tree's remaining nutrients, and provide essential shelter for a variety of species. Woodpeckers, for example, love foraging and nesting in dead trees. Bats will use crevices in dead trees as roosts, as will raccoons and squirrels. 

As long as a dead tree does not pose a threat to your home or humans, we recommend leaving them be. You can also selectively remove problematic limbs while keeping the trunk in-tact, attracting a variety of species to your property. 

Native trees & Nesting boxes

A wonderful way to attract birds to your property is to plant native trees and install nest boxes. Work to remove invasive plants like tree of heaven (ailanthus), callery pear, autumn olive, and kudzu while installing bird houses and raptor nesting boxes on native trees. There are many nest boxes commercially available, or you can build your own and decorate it! If you're not quite sure where to begin when it comes to backyard vegetation, check in with your local native plant landscaping company for advice. 

Nest boxes not only provide habitat for native birds, but they also help keep your backyard ecosystem in balance. Cavity-nesting species like Eastern Bluebirds and Carolina Wrens love birdhouses and can help control insect populations, especially if you're a gardener dealing with garden pests. Owl nest boxes are often used by Eastern Screech-owls and Barred Owls, who both help control prey like rodents. Attracting native raptors to your yard is an incredibly effective method of pest control! 



Responsible birdfeeder use

Though we typically recommend against feeding wildlife, including birds, we know that many folks dearly love their bird feeders. (Planting native plants is often enough to attract a wide array of bird activity, anyway!) Bird feeders can contribute to disease transmission across populations, like mycoplasma and avian pox. If you would like to feed birds in your yard, follow these best practices for the health  of birds and humans alike. 

  • Use multiple feeding stations in different areas of your property to disperse bird activity and reduce disease transmission. Offer different seeds in different feeders, too, in order to decrease interactions between species that have different diets. 
  • Purchase or create specialized blends rather than seed mixtures targeted to a wide variety of species, as the latter often contains fillers like milo that many birds pick through. Mess below a feeder can attract squirrels, raccoons, or bears to gather which can further disease transmission or cause human-wildlife conflicts. 
  • If possible, elevate your feeder on a well-draining platform to prevent any fallen food from sitting in damp conditions. This can cause ground-feeding birds to become sick. 
  • Clean every feeder thoroughly with a 10% bleach solution once per week, using nitrile gloves and a face mask as personal protection. 
  • Avoid handling wild birds. If you suspect a wild bird is injured or orphaned, call Rockfish Wildlife Sanctuary at (434) 263-4954. 
  • If you have found a dead bird at your feeder, bury it at least 3 feet or dispose of it in a tied plastic bag with your household trash. 
  • Report any other bird mortalities to the Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources using their mortality event report form. Bird mortality events are often the first sign of a new emerging disease, and it's important for the authorities to know. 



Though we typically recommend against feeding wildlife, including birds, we know that many folks dearly love their bird feeders. (Planting native plants is often enough to attract a wide array of bird activity, anyway!) Bird feeders can contribute to disease transmission across populations, like mycoplasma and avian pox. If you would like to feed birds in your yard, follow these best practices for the health  of birds and humans alike. 


  • Use multiple feeding stations in different areas of your property to disperse bird activity and reduce disease transmission. Offer different seeds in different feeders, too, in order to decrease interactions between species that have different diets. 
  • Purchase or create specialized blends rather than seed mixtures targeted to a wide variety of species, as the latter often contains fillers like milo that many birds pick through. Mess below a feeder can attract squirrels, raccoons, or bears to gather which can further disease transmission or cause human-wildlife conflicts. 
  • If possible, elevate your feeder on a well-draining platform to prevent any fallen food from sitting in damp conditions. This can cause ground-feeding birds to become sick. 
  • Clean every feeder thoroughly with a 10% bleach solution once per week, using nitrile gloves and a face mask as personal protection. 
  • Avoid handling wild birds. If you suspect a wild bird is injured or orphaned, call Rockfish Wildlife Sanctuary at (434) 263-4954. 
  • If you have found a dead bird at your feeder, bury it at least 3 feet or dispose of it in a tied plastic bag with your household trash. 
  • Report any other bird mortalities to the Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources using their mortality event report form. Bird mortality events are often the first sign of a new emerging disease, and it's important for the authorities to know. 

Water and bird baths

Leaving water out for wildlife in the form of bowls or a designated bird bath can be beneficial, but is not necessary in most cases. It can be helpful to provide if you do not have any natural water resources on your property or nearby, like a pond or stream. It can also be helpful to local wildlife during heat waves. No need to buy a fancy stone bird bath or build a pond (power to you if you do, though!). At the Sanctuary, we use planter saucers to provide fresh water to our patients in outdoor pre-release enclosures. They are low to the ground, allowing for easy access for a variety of species. Birds will also gladly bathe in these wide pans! 

If you provide fresh water for wildlife, it's vital you do so responsibly through frequent, thorough cleaning. Bowls should be completely cleaned out every 3 days at the bare minimum, though daily is ideal. We recommend having two bowls you use for water, so you can just swap them out every other day. Using nitrile gloves, scrub the water dish with warm, soapy water. Spray with a 10% bleach solution, allow it to sit for 10 minutes, and rinse the bleach solution off. Once dry, the bowl is ready to go back out and help hydrate critters.

Do not allow pets or children to drink the water from the water dish or bird bath. If possible, elevate any water pans or bird baths on a well-draining platform. This prevents unnecessary dampness around the bowls, which can lead to mold and contribute to disease transmission. 


Leave leaf litter

As fun as it is to jump in a pile of leaves, we recommend leaving fallen leaves where they are. No need to rake! Leaf litter provides essential habitat to some of our smallest wild neighbors, like native herptiles, insects, and mice. This is especially true in the fall and winter, when many animals rely on the shelter of leaf litter to get through cold days. 

Insects in particular need leaf litter to survive the winter, and no wildlife sanctuary would be successful without a wide variety of insects! Bees burrow to hibernate while  moths and butterflies stay tucked into the leaves in various life cycle stages, awaiting the warmth of springtime to cue their development into flying beauties. Snails, worms, spiders, and beetles also rely on leaf litter to survive the season. Most other animals rely on these invertebrates to survive, too! Birds, turtles, amphibians, chipmunks, and mice will chow down on these critters throughout the year but especially when vegetation to eat is scarce. 

Do you live in a neighborhood with an HOA that requires leaves be raked? If there is any spot in your yard (perhaps the backyard, away from the curb!) where you can leave a patch of leaves, please do so. Even a little bit of leave coverage is better than none. Additionally, consider speaking with your HOA reps about the importance of leaf coverage for wildlife. Most folks just don't know how important fallen leaves are to our ecosystems. If all leaves absolutely must be raked and removed, you can still help provide habitat for invertebrates and small critters. Plant native vegetation and focus on flowers and shrubs that attract pollinators. 

Brush Piles 

Leaving brush piles around your property provides shelter for an immense variety of species. Brush piles don't need to be huge - even just a few sticks and leaves clumped together after trimming your property's vegetation is enough to provide a safe haven for a wild neighbor. Opossums, snakes, skunks, raccoons, chipmunks, lizards, and countless other species will happily rest in a brush pile. At RWS, we create brush piles all the time when cutting enrichment clippings for outdoor enclosures or clearing brush from around enclosures in the winter. We often see more critter activity around that area within just a few days. 

If you are frustrated by an animal spending time on your property, this tip works in reverse. Make sure your yard is free of brush piles where critters might be seeking refuge. Without shelter, they'll opt for another location. 





gardening considerations

Wild animals will always exert the least amount of energy for the most amount of calories available. If you have an easily accessible garden or chicken coop, it just looks like a buffet to native animals! We often receive calls from folks who are frustrated by these uninvited garden guests, but the animals don't know they didn't receive an invitation. 

Think exclusion, not extermination - and start with the least invasive methods possible. First, consider planting garden borders using species that deter herbivorous critters. Consult your local native plant society or landscaping organization for region-specific advice. Generally, though, boxwood, lavender, butterfly butterfly bush, and marigolds are less desirable for deer or groundhogs to munch on.

A study fence will typically do the trick when deterrent plants don't seem to cut it. To keep deer out of a garden, a fence should be 8 feet high. To keep groundhogs, foxes, mice, and skunks out, we recommend burying the fencing. Put L-shaped hardwire at least 1 foot deep, ideally 2 feet or so, with the tail of the L pointing away from the fence. Fill it back in, and voila - critterproofed! Digging animals will be obstructed if they attempt to dig straight down or dig diagonally. You can also consider putting a 2-3 foot wide "sidewalk" of hardwire flat around the whole garden perimeter. (For the visual learners out there, check out this helpful post from Our Edible Garden.)  Should an animal attempt to dig in along the fence line, they will not get very far! If you do end up needing a heavy duty solution, a low-voltage electric line around the fence is usually an effective tool that still minimizes harm to wildlife. 

It is illegal to trap and relocate wildlife in Virginia. Do not trap an animal on your property and release it elsewhere - not even "just this once." 

Lastly, we also encourage gardeners to use organic fertilizers and treatments. Though we humans can wash our food thoroughly before enjoying it, wild animals don't have that luxury. If you wouldn't eat it, they shouldn't be eating it either. Chemicals and pesticides quickly move up the food chain and impact far more than just the first animal that comes into contact with them. 


Fencing

Habitat fragmentation and loss due to human development is a massive issue for wildlife in Virginia and beyond. Approximately 93,000 acres of Virginian open space land is converted to non-renewable uses each year! With every acre developed, wild animals lose safe territory and  passage along important ecological corridors. You can combat this fragmentation by ensuring your property allows wild animals to pass through. 

If you need to fence your yard for whatever reason, consider the critters. Wild animals do need to be able to enter and exit safely for your property to be a true wildlife sanctuary. If possible, forego a traditional fence in favor of a natural fence, made of native bushes and vegetation. Consider options like Virginia sweetspire, mountain laurel, spicebush, inkberry, or chokeberry bushes for a natural hedge-like screen. If you'd like to deter people and deer, consider taller, thorny species like American holly, Devil's walking stick, and raspberry bushes. These still allow small wildlife to pass through, like turtles and opossums, while preventing deer from nibbling and humans from prowling. 

If you have young explorers at home (kids!) or curious pets that necessitate installing a more traditional fence, you can still make your fence wildlife-friendly! A wildlife-friendly fence should be highly visible to birds and larger animals, like deer, and allow wildlife to jump over, climb over, or crawl under the fence to access resources or important ecological corridors. A simple wooden or wire fence with 16 inches of clearance below and 12 inches of clearance between the top two wires can allow most species easy access. Use wood, smooth wire, or rounded rails on the top and bottom to prevent injury, and avoid using sharp materials like barbed wire. Flag fence posts with high-visibility tape or other obvious marker to prevent wildlife collisions. Creating colorful flags or other bright markers for your wildlife-friendly fence is a wonderful activity to do with your child! 

We know that deer can occasionally cause concern for gardeners. If you'd like to allow deer to pass through, we recommend keeping your fence 42" or less. If you'd like to prevent deer from accessing your yard but would like other wildlife to be able to enter, fences must typically be at least 8' tall to reliably exclude deer. 

If you'd like to explore land use and conservation patterns in Virginia, we recommend checking out the Natural Heritage Data Explorer, an interactive map created by the Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation. 



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5450 Wheelers Cove Rd.
Shipman, VA 22971

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